POŁOŻNICTWO

[Lindsay Hornby]

In Lars von Trier's saucony iso2 Melancholia (2011), she plays a well to do character  une femme bourgeoise  who wears Balenciaga, but even in Todd Hayne's portrait of Bob Dylan, I'm Not There (2007), she couldn't help wearing a Ghesquière jacket although, she admits, it was a total anachronism. At the heart of a hard-knock, commercially driven business, Gainsbourg is reassured to have found such an authentic person who is clearly uncompromising and courageous. At Balenciaga under Ghesquière  chez moi lui  you could find an entire wardrobe she declares: "A classic coat that you could wear everyday or an incredibly unique dress that you might wear only once. At the same time, I could throw on my old jeans and boots with one of Nicolas' jackets and with little effort, it changes everything.

It was very personal, which is why I asked Charlotte Gainsbourg to represent the first new scent, Balenciaga Paris. I really respected the old Balenciaga fragrances; after all, the house survived on them, Fleeting Moments, Quadrille, Ho Hang, and Le Dix. We canceled the old licenses and stopped production for five or six years. I spent 12 years cohesion saucony materializing ideas and all of a sudden I had to do the opposite and dematerialize an idea to create a fragrance. My collaborators were key. I suggested we work with Coty to develop the first perfume; Olivier Polge was the nose. I learned it had to crystallize the heritage of the house, but people expected it to be modern. It couldn't be a gimmick or the black balenciaga sneakers hit of the season; it had to be a classic.

There were very few handsome pants on the market. I wanted to reconstruct them to look good from all sides to give women nice behinds! Editor Polly Mellon, who I respect a lot, once paid me the best compliment by saying that "a Balenciaga pant looks as good coming as it does going."At Ghesquière's level, success requires rapid-fire reactions and 360-degree surveillance, managing the previous collection while planning the next one and shaping what's immediately on the worktable. It's a mental origami that folds space and time, yesterday and tomorrow, macro and micro together into a densely packed workday. "He was at every meeting, the shape of the heel, the proportions of the shoe, the size of the laces, the diameter of balenciaga shoes all black the eyelet, the color of the lining, the length of the stitch.

It was all him," says Pierre Hardy of work sessions with Ghesquière, who is known to attack every item from every line, capsule, or accessory, with equal acuity. Within the studio he has a reputation for an unerring rigor, polite and firm, able to pick out a faulty stitch almost instantaneously. In unison with a swarm of designers and stylists, pattern and sample makers, technicians and seamstresses, fabric, leather, and trimmings specialists, Ghesquière moiled away at what he proudly calls the Balenciaga laboratory. Hardy says the bricolage behind the design of a simple heel was, "Apocalyptic. Madman's work."

As a young designer, you took an unmistakably unique approach to retail expansion at Balenciaga, not surprisingly. Your New York store for example shifted the traditional context of luxury retail to a gallery setting, in an emerging arts district. Your L.A. store picks up on the same idea. What was your strategy?Comme des Garçons was already on West 22nd Street in Chelsea. But, it all started with Paris, where we wanted to take a stance against globalization, the game of having the same dress at a moment's notice all over the world. While Prada, Gucci, and everyone else were deploying carbon-copy stores everywhere  Prada shifted of course  Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster and I wanted our boutiques to be varied, to integrate the local urban context.

We completely re-built it from the inside out, with a plant and mineral garden. London and Milan are great. I have to admit that this saddens me a bit. Dominique has decided not to work for them in the future and I am not sure how the company will handle the stores.It's been a while since I've red and black balenciaga been in a position to build and visualize an idea  thinking and conceptualizing, doing workshops  without having to materialize it right away. It's a real pleasure. I am preparing something, but I have choices to make. I will announce something when I am ready. I've wanted to do this for a long time. Now is my time to question inter-seasonality  it's always the opposite season somewhere else in the world  and fashion's need to be global while respecting the environment and local [img]https://www.audioreliefzone.com/images/u/red and black balenciaga-954yin.jpg[/img] cultures and of course the usual six-month cycle for collections.

[Reklama]

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Econ148.6BettBettPianSideJewePeteTimeSandSanoDreaRoxeGranPeteMetaAgatRosaJuliVirgBernFranMagn
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[wishbone]

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Econ

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152.5

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Bett

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[Reklama]